Bite-Size Trip Down Memory Lane

I was digging through some old pieces I’d written a lifetime ago and I came across this bit from 2009 – which I think I still rather like:

“Street food is more than just a tasty morsel eaten on the run. It’s great food plus the thrill of the hunt. It’s the absolute bliss of realizing you’ve reached the corner of Broadway and 17th just as the Wafels & Dinges truck has pulled up. If you think ‘bliss’ is laying it on a bit thick, this is because you have not had a dessert waffle from Wafels & Dinges.”

Musing on Great American Pies Month

February is, apparently, Great American Pies Month. It may or may not surprise you to know that it appears to have been the brainchild of Crisco brand shortening.

But ignoring the brand behind the idea, the idea of a Great American Pie got me thinking. A ‘great’ pie would be a well-made, delicious pie no matter what the cultural origins. So what makes a pie an American Pie (movie notwithstanding).

Continue reading “Musing on Great American Pies Month”

On The Cookbooks We Create

Jay Rayner has been doing a weekly column on notable cookbooks – notable to him, to cooking, to cultural moments. I happen to love Rayner’s writing style and always read him anyway but these columns, every Sunday for the last few months, I have especially enjoyed. This week is the last one and it touches on the ‘cookbooks’ we create for ourselves, often not books at all but folders full of clippings, binders full of notes, etc.

It reminded me of my mother’s ‘cookbook’ which encompassed both folders full of clippings, spirals full of her absurdly neat handwriting. No, seriously you have no idea – she may drive me nuts but there is NO DENYING the woman has the best handwriting on earth. Don’t even start me on her colour-coded note taking. But I digress… Continue reading “On The Cookbooks We Create”

When We Say ‘Barbecue’, Do We All Mean the Same Thing?

As we just had lovely weather this weekend (and it looks like we might have more happening more frequently over the next couple of weeks, grill covers are being removed and Brits are starting to talk of BBQ.

Here’s the thing though. When they say BBQ – they mean grilling. They don’t mean BBQ in the sense that many Americans means BBQ (the cooking of meat for long periods of time at low temperatures with smoke from a wood fire).

Don’t get me wrong, I’m a fan of grilling. But it isn’t BBQ just because you use the grill. BBQ is a multi-faceted, often-debated, regionally varied thing in the States.  Of course, it will necessarily follow that laying out my views on what each style is and means, others will have differing views and won’t hesitate to share them.

That’s fine. It’s a big broad, barbecue-y world – and I did mention ‘often-debated.’ Continue reading “When We Say ‘Barbecue’, Do We All Mean the Same Thing?”

The Inevitable Lemon

There are three things that are inevitable in my life: Death, taxes, and that at some point in my day, I will reach for a lemon. Actually, perhaps four things, as it’s also inevitable that at some point in their blogging life every food blogger must write a post extolling the virtues of the lemon. And here I am, to do just that.

There’s an old saw that goes “If Life gives you lemons, put nine in a bowl.” I’d have a better use for every one of those lemons. Lemons are so absolutely essential to how I cook and how I live in my kitchen. It’s not that I want all my food to taste lemony, but rather that they’re so dang useful. They’re the cornerstone of my cooking. I never don’t have at least one lemon to hand, even if it is a scraggy quartered thing lurking in the nether recesses of my fridge.

In fact, once when taking part in a radio program about matters foodie, I was asked “What food item do you always have in your kitchen?”, and instead of answering something appropriately glamorous like “Pink Himalayan Sea Salt” or “Truffle Infused Honey”, I heard myself say “A dried up quarter of a lemon in my fridge. Inevitably.” Continue reading “The Inevitable Lemon”

The Tale of The Lonely Lasagna

A couple of weeks ago, I was brought up short by a moment of hubris.

What happened was this: A very dear friend, who has known me as well as my family since college and with whom I, in fact, used to live, came to stay the night. On her last visit we had sampled a local Vietnamese place so this time we’d be eating in. Thence came my moment of hubris. Secure in the knowledge that my culinary prowess would thrill her whatever I made, I asked “What would you like me to cook?”

Warning: If you are tempted to ask a guest, “What would you like me to cook?” … take a deep breath and don’t.

Don’t Ask

Never do this. You’re hosting a dinner, not taking requests at the cocktail lounge out by the airport.

Don’t put people on the spot (unless they’re family, in which they’ll likely demand a given dish before you’ve even asked). Guests somehow never say “Oh I’m sure whatever you make will be divine!”, thus freeing you up to make the fiendishly impressive Middle Eastern feast you’d been planning. Instead, they will ask for precisely the dish you just cooked last week and can now barely bear the thought of. Or worse, they’ll say what my guest said: “Oooh! How about you make your lasagna?”

My lasagna? What could she be thinking? I don’t have a lasagna! I’ve never made a lasagna in my life. And that’s what brought me up short: I HAD NEVER MADE A LASAGNA IN MY LIFE. Continue reading “The Tale of The Lonely Lasagna”

The Summer Sun Approach to Eating

Let’s get the weather moan out of the way first thing: “SHEESH, it’s hot out! No, seriously – so hot.” Well done. We have fulfilled our clichéd social obligations. Now, on to something useful and constructive.

I don’t know about you but while I love the summer sun, relentlessly high temperatures with very little breeze – which is what we’re having here in my part of the UK at the moment – wears me right out. I become lethargic, cranky and even the simplest tasks seem like major undertakings.

So what’s the solution? Well, if I was still living in Houston where heat and humidity are a daily fact of life except during a few weeks in January and February, the answer would be AC. But I am not in Houston – or even the US – so AC is not as common and the answer is circulating fans, lots of water and choosing a summer sun approach to eating.

What do I mean by that? I’m glad you asked.

The Fabulous Foodie Summer Sun Approach to Eating

Water, Water Everywhere.

The first and most basic rule of a summer sun approach to eating is hydration. I won’t bore you with lectures about the reasons for – and benefits of – drinking enough water. We’ve all heard it before and presumably we all know we should be doing it.

Oh, and by the way 6-8 glasses a day? No. There’s no actual hard basis for that oft-repeated requirement.  The actual amount of water you need will vary depending on age, weight, daily activity levels, temperatures and a whole slew of other things.

The easiest and quickest way to judge is check your urine colour – clear or pale yellow? Spot on, you’re hydrated. Darker yellow means you could use a water boost. Other things to look out for – fatigue, thirst and headaches. Now these might happen for any number of reasons but if they are happening at the same time as darker urine? Definitely get some water.

But some people do find drinking lots of water a challenge so what can they do to boost their water intake. First, they can rejoice in the fact that water doesn’t mean ‘JUST WATER. AND ONLY WATER.’  Veggie and fruit juice contains water; so do tea, coffee, milk, and soda. Of course, it’s best to take a moderate approach to caffeinated drinks generally but there is no reason they can’t be part of your water calculation.

So if water doesn’t appeal at all – pour yourself a juice, pop the top on a can of sugar free fizz and get hydrating. That said, the water content of water is higher than in other drinks so to make plain water more appealing, pop a lemon or lime slice in it.

Eat Right. Eat Light.

Make sure you eat. That’s not meant to be funny. The fact is that when it is really hot out, the last thing you may feel like going is eating but instead of skipping food – which you need to replace salt losses from sweating, keep your energy levels up – try a few adjustments.

  • Switch to series of smaller meals instead of larger lunches or dinners.
  • Build meals around lighter options such as fish instead of meat, leafy greens instead of starches, vinaigrette instead of creamier dressings.
  • Skipping breakfast when its hot out is still a no-no.  Have some fruit (melons and citrus are tasty, tangy and full of water so are a great option) or make yourself a frothy, frosty smoothie. Using foods with natural cooling properties such as cucumber or mint can make these not just tasty but cool you down as well.

Cook Smarter, Not Hotter.

The last thing I want to do when the mercury rises is spend endless hours in the kitchen – a room inclined to be warmish anyway. I’m a huge fan of batch cooking as readers of this blog will know and while we tend to associate winter dishes with batch cooking (stews, casseroles, etc.) it can be an absolute life saver when you’re trying to avoid turning on the stove.

  • Grab a few packs of chicken breasts or thighs (we’re thigh people in TransAtlantic Towers) and roast far more than you need for a single meal. They’ll keep several days in the fridge and are great for room temperature snacking, light lunches and shredded into salads.
  • Prep some summer sauces for fast pasta dishes – pesto, as a rule, is lighter than the meat-based tomato sauces that feature in so many winter dishes. Freeze them in small amounts using ice cube trays or muffin tins and then transfer into baggies. That way you use only as much as you need and let’s face it – when the sun is scorching the last thing you want is heavily dressed pasta. A light coating is much more appealing.

  • Weekends around the BBQ grill are a summer staple and a super way to keep the heat out of the house itself. You can do plenty of batch-based prep for these outdoor meals as well. Top tip for freezing hamburger patties in advance? Place wax paper between each raw burger and slide two or four (depending on what’s most useful for you) into plastic freezer bags. They’ll be ready and waiting and perfectly fine for 6-8 weeks.

Avoid cooking with heat all together.

You can – with some advanced planning and savvy shopping – avoid turning on the heat at all. I’ve touched on this before – no cook meals – when looking at leftovers. But a few quick ideas…

  • Chicken salad is a breeze if you’ve got cooked chicken on hand (see, I told you that batch cooking would come in handy), some diced-up roasted red peppers, a bit of mayo and mustard, salt and pepper to taste. Then spoon the whole thing into a pita or on top of some leafy greens.
  • Still have cooked chicken left? You’re half way to Asian chicken (coat the chicken in Hoisin sauce then toss with water chestnuts and chopped celery) or chicken fajitas (top tortillas with chicken, sliced green bell peppers and red onion, serve with salsa and/or sour cream).
  • No-bake dessert with summer flair is easy if you have any fresh or canned tropical fruits (pineapple, mango, and papaya are good choices). Combine them with sliced almonds and a bit of coconut milk and voila! Thai fruit cup!

So don’t let the hot weather make you wilt. The summer sun approach to eating is about staying happy and hydrated, minimizing your time at the stove and eating foods that will perk you up instead of weigh you down.

The Myths and Making of Mayonnaise

A few of years ago, NPR aired a segment called “Happy Birthday, Dear Mayo — We Hold You Dear” in order to mark the 250th ‘birthday’ of that useful and ever-present condiment, mayonnaise.

Mere condiment? Did I say condiment? Isn’t it so much more than that? It is the stuff of culinary creativeness. I don’t even like the stuff that much and even I admire its usefulness. It is the basis for sauces, the glue for salads, the moistener for many a sandwich – even a home remedy for aching joints.

That last one is according to Wikipedia and while I’ve not heard that myself (and I’m well aware that Wikipedia isn’t 100% to be counted on) why would someone make up something that weird and that random? We shall take it as given until someone makes a case otherwise.

There is no existing culinary celebration of mayo on any list I’ve found. So I am, partly because I can and partly at the request of a friend whose hubby puts mayo on everything, declaring that May 21st is, from this day hence, to be known as Fabulous Foodie Mayo Day. (insert sound of cheering crowds here)

And so that we all know what we’re talking about by then, I’ve dug around and herein lay bare the truth, the assumptions and the mechanics of mayonnaise, our fabulous food friend. Continue reading “The Myths and Making of Mayonnaise”

Spatchcocking Psycho

It started a few weeks, back, under the cover of night.  I’d been aching to try it for a while, but it seemed so difficult and dangerous that I was nervous about an actual attempt. I’d read about it of course, and even seen a few videos on one of those specialty YouTube channels. They made it look so easy, but still I was afraid I’d wind up with a mangled corpse and a kitchen saturated with blood.

A Decision Made

Finally I plucked up the courage to try my hand.

I waited until I knew there would be no witnesses to catch me should I fail. I brought my victim home, put on my apron and sharpened my largest, heaviest knife. Then, with a drink to steady my nerves, I sneaked up behind my victim, and set to work.

The relief and pride as the job was done were immense. And later, as   I gazed down at my victim lying spread-eagled before me and sampled the juicy morsels of tender flesh, I knew I would do it again. And again and again. This was not some dark adventure to try only when the moon was full or when I could hold out no longer against my dark desires. This would happen regularly, perhaps once a week if I was lucky and could find people to share my new compulsion – and if my freezer could hold the rising tide of body parts. I had become a man obsessed.

Yes. Spatchcocking chicken had changed me forever.

You may have heard of Spatchocking as “butterflying,” but that’s far too pretty a term for what this process involves.

Spatchcocking – not to be confused with Spatchcock, which is a culled immature rooster, or Spitchcock, which has to do with eels- is when  the backbone of a chicken is removed and the chicken is flattened out, ready for grilling or roasting. The term  is apparently an Irish word, which is another culinary reason to thank them, along with flavored potato chips and chocolate milk.  It’s been around since at least the 18th century, though it’s such a brilliant way to prepare a chicken for cooking that I’d be surprised if nobody had thought of it sooner. Spatchcocking has regained popularity for a while now, mostly because it’s perfect for the barbecue.

Flattening  a whole chicken like that allows you to grill it in one piece, like it’s one big piece of meat. And who doesn’t go berserk for a big piece of meat?

Now that’s all well and good, but why lose my mind over it? Continue reading “Spatchcocking Psycho”

The Bread Baby

Does anyone remember that craze back in the 90’s, where people gave each other little pocket sized computer thingies that you had to ” feed” and “bathe”, or they pinged in an annoyingly loud manner? Or that episode in “Frasier” where Niles attempted to simulate fatherhood by looking after an eight pound sack of flour for a week? No?

I had forgotten them too – but they all came rushing back to me in the early hours of the morning about a month ago, when I found myself under the glare of my kitchen lights, giving it the full Colin Clive and screaming, “It’s alive! IT’S ALIVE!!

That’s Dr. Frankenstein to you, thank you very much.

I was making my own sourdough bread.

Moreover, I was learning – all too painfully – that making your own sourdough bread is not about the baking the bread, but rather about making the “starter.” And making a sourdough starter is uncomfortably like looking after a small baby for an extended period of time. There’s a lot of feeding and changing, quite a bit of gas, the regular disposal of beige goop, some malodorous smells, and far too much fretting and crying.

How did I get to that darkly cinematic moment in my kitchen in those wee small hours? Not naturally or easily actually. Continue reading “The Bread Baby”